LuckNow – The Constantinople of India

I went to Lucknow in search of Chikan.  Just as many of our textile journeys, the city was as magical as the delicate and beautiful embroidery Lucknow is famous for.

Chikan is said to have first come to Lucknow with the Mughal rulers from Persia and was initially only worn at court. The original embroideries were on diaphanous white muslin with white embroidery

“Under the Mughal rule the slightly Persian repeat patterns of flower heads often set in diapers or rows, gradually developed into a local Indian style that was more flowing. The inspiration for these floral patterns is accepted as being the Persian love and symbolism of t he garden, fuelled by the Mughal ruler Jahangirs delight at the flowers he saw on his visit to Kashmir in 1620 and the Eurpoean herbals which found their way to the Mughal courts in the 17th century. The floral desgins of chikan share the same heritage.” CHIKAN EMBROIDERY THE FLORA WHITEWORK BY SHELIA PAINE Chikan is said to have first come to Lucknow with the Mughal rulers from Persia and was initially only worn at court. The original embroideries were on diaphanous white muslin with white embroidery.

Although Chikan is now seen everywhere from the beaches in Harbour Island to the street fairs in London, Lucknow is practically a secret, devoid of the tourism and commerce that has exploded in most Indian cities.  Lucknow,”THE CITY OF SPLENDOURS” is an architectural treasure trove. Because Lucknow was a mid way point for the British when they moved the capital from Calcutta to Delhi and it was also the seat of the Nawabs of Oudh (muslim rulers who migrated from Persia to India), Lucknow has a quirky and magnificent mix of colonial and islamic architecture.

A lavish eccentricity permeates the colonial mansions and follies as well al the islamic palaces and mosques

Just one of the many splendid views.

My search for chikan led to the back streets and alleys where I loved seeing the goats with the tattered feed bags tied to their necks.
In making chikan, the pattern is first printed by muslim men on the fabric.

Then the fabric is taken to women to sew at home or in studios. Traditionally, all the sewing was done in houses scattered around town and in villages. Now there are charitable organizations to keep the craft alive and empower and employ women. SEWA i(link) s one of the  most well known.

KEBABS

Second to chikan, Lucknow is known for the most delicious kebabs that melt in your mouth.  Legend has it that the toothless ruler of Lucknow asked his chef to recreate his favorite kebab so that it could be eaten without teeth. The result was finely minced lamb and raw papaya mixed with 160 heavenly spices. Most Lucknow families have their own secret spice mixture, but the most sought after recipe is from the 100 year old ‘Tunde ke Kebab” in chowk. For an authentic Lucknow experience I suggest you watch this U Tube Video of the famous indian food critic Bikamjit Ray at Tunday Kebab. Personally, I ate my kebabs in the very quiet and clean Oberoi dining room.

I was so engrossed in the beauty, the food and the adventures of Lucknow I had no idea that my last day was the day before one of the most holy muslim holidays. It was only at dusk, I noticed the chaos and crowds in the streets and  markets as muslim families were last minute shopping in preparation for a feast.

Goats in carts

I was upset to see what was the last ride for the lovely goats I so adored.

Muslim family

I  hope  they have a happy holdiay?

I would return to Lucknow anytime.